Key Takeaways
- Always negotiate the out-the-door (OTD) price—never the monthly payment
- For leases: negotiate cap cost, money factor, and understand residual value
- Invoice price is NOT dealer cost—dealers can sell below invoice profitably
- Doc fees under $800 are normal; focus on total price, not individual line items
- Contact 3-4 dealers and let them compete for your business
- Always decline dealer add-ons—request removal or an offsetting discount
- Be prepared to walk away—it's your most powerful negotiating tool
Most people dread negotiating car prices—and dealers know it. The average car buyer leaves $2,000 to $3,000 on the table simply because they don't know how to negotiate effectively.
But here's the truth: negotiating a car price isn't about being aggressive or playing games. It's about being prepared, knowing your numbers, and being willing to walk away. This guide will show you exactly how to do it.
Before You Visit the Dealer
The negotiation starts long before you set foot in a dealership. In fact, 80% of your negotiating power comes from preparation. Here's how to arm yourself with information.
1. Know the True Market Price
Before negotiating, you need to know what others are actually paying—not the MSRP, not the invoice price, but real transaction prices.
See What Others Are Paying
CarWhere shows you real dealer quotes from real buyers. See actual transaction prices—not estimates—so you know exactly what a fair deal looks like.
View Real PricesUnderstanding the price hierarchy is essential:
- MSRP (Sticker Price): The manufacturer's suggested retail price—your starting point, but rarely what you should pay
- Invoice Price: What the dealer supposedly paid the manufacturer (roughly 5-8% below MSRP)
- Dealer Holdback: A hidden 2-3% rebate dealers get from manufacturers
- Dealer Incentives: Additional hidden rebates and bonuses from manufacturers
- Fair Market Price: What the car is actually selling for in your area
The Invoice Price Myth
Invoice is NOT dealer cost. Dealers receive holdback (2-3%), dealer cash, volume bonuses, and other manufacturer incentives that aren't shown on the invoice. They can absolutely sell below invoice and still make a profit. Don't let anyone tell you "we're losing money at this price"—it's almost never true.
Your target price should be at or below invoice in most market conditions. On slow-selling models, dealers will happily sell well below invoice to move inventory.
2. Get Multiple Quotes via Email
Email is your secret weapon. It lets you negotiate without pressure and creates competition between dealers. Here's how to do it:
- Identify 5-7 dealers within a reasonable driving distance
- Find the internet sales manager's email (usually on the dealer website)
- Send a specific request for their best out-the-door price
- Let dealers compete against each other
Email Template: Initial Quote Request
Subject: Quote Request - [Year] [Make] [Model] [Trim]
Hi,
I'm looking to purchase a [Year] [Make] [Model] [Trim] within the next two weeks. I'm getting quotes from several dealers in the area.
Could you please send me your best out-the-door price including all taxes and fees? I'm a cash/financing buyer with no trade-in.
I'll be making my decision based on the best overall price.
Thank you,
[Your Name]
[Phone Number]
3. Get Pre-Approved for Financing
Getting pre-approved for an auto loan before visiting the dealer gives you two advantages:
- You know your rate: You can compare dealer financing against your bank's offer
- You have leverage: Dealers often beat outside rates to keep the financing in-house
Check rates at your bank, credit union, and online lenders. Credit unions often offer the best rates.
4. Research Current Incentives
Manufacturers offer rebates and incentives that can save you thousands. Check the manufacturer's website for:
- Cash rebates (Customer Cash, Bonus Cash)
- Low APR financing offers
- Loyalty/conquest bonuses
- Special programs (military, college grad, first responder)
Important: You usually can't combine cash rebates with promotional APR—you have to choose one or the other.
Lease vs. Finance/Cash: Different Strategies
How you negotiate depends on whether you're leasing or buying. Each has different numbers to focus on and different tactics to use.
If You're Leasing
Lease negotiation is about understanding three key numbers:
- Cap Cost (Capitalized Cost): This is the "selling price" for lease purposes. Negotiate this down just like you would the purchase price.
- Money Factor: The interest rate in disguise. Multiply by 2,400 to get the approximate APR. A money factor of 0.00125 = 3% APR.
- Residual Value: Set by the manufacturer's leasing company—you generally can't negotiate this, but you should verify it's correct.
Lease Negotiation Focus Points
- Cap cost reduction: Negotiate the selling price down before it becomes the cap cost
- Money factor: Ask for the "base" or "buy rate" money factor—dealers often mark this up
- Manufacturer rebates: These should reduce your cap cost, not go into the dealer's pocket
- Due at signing: Ideally pay only first month's payment + fees. Large down payments on leases are risky if the car is totaled.
The "$0 Down Lease" Trap
True "zero down" means you only pay the first month and standard fees at signing. If a dealer is asking for $2,000-$3,000 "due at signing," that's effectively a down payment—they've just hidden it. Always ask for the true "zero drive-off" monthly payment to compare deals fairly.
If You're Financing or Paying Cash
For cash or finance deals, your focus is simpler: the out-the-door (OTD) price.
- OTD price: The total amount you'll pay, including all taxes, fees, and charges
- Never negotiate monthly payment: Dealers can manipulate loan terms to hit any monthly payment while increasing total cost
- Get financing pre-approved: Use this as leverage to get the dealer to beat your rate
Script: Keeping Focus on OTD Price
Dealer: "What monthly payment works for you?"
You: "I don't negotiate monthly payments. I need your best out-the-door price including all taxes and fees. I'll figure out the financing from there."
Push Back on Market Adjustments
Some dealers add "Market Value Selling Price" (MVSP), "Additional Dealer Markup" (ADM), or similar charges on top of MSRP. These are pure profit for the dealer.
In a normal market, you should refuse to pay any ADM. If a vehicle is in high demand, you may need to shop around or wait. Never pay thousands over MSRP unless you've confirmed every dealer in your area is charging the same markup.
Script: Pushing Back on ADM
Dealer: "This vehicle has a $3,000 market adjustment due to demand."
You: "I'm not willing to pay over MSRP. I've contacted several dealers and I'll be purchasing from whoever can sell at MSRP or below. If that changes, feel free to reach out."
At the Dealership
Armed with research, you're ready to negotiate in person. Here's how to handle each stage of the process.
5. Control the Conversation
Dealers are trained to control the sales process. Your job is to take it back. Key principles:
- Don't reveal your budget or monthly payment target
- Don't mention your trade-in until you've agreed on the new car price
- Don't get emotional—treat it as a business transaction
- Don't feel rushed—take your time, leave if needed
When the salesperson asks, "What monthly payment are you looking for?" respond with: "I'm focused on the total out-the-door price. What's your best price on this vehicle?"
6. Negotiate the Price First
Always negotiate in this order:
- Vehicle price (negotiate this completely before discussing anything else)
- Trade-in value (if applicable)
- Financing terms
- Add-ons and extras
This prevents the dealer from shuffling numbers between categories to confuse you. If they try to bundle everything together, say: "Let's just focus on the vehicle price first. We can discuss the trade-in separately."
7. Use Silence as a Tool
When the dealer gives you a price, don't respond immediately. Silence is uncomfortable—and that discomfort often leads to concessions.
After hearing their offer, pause for 10-15 seconds. Look at the numbers. Then simply say: "That's higher than I was hoping. What can you do better?"
8. Make a Reasonable Counter-Offer
Don't lowball so aggressively that you insult the dealer—it kills the negotiation. Instead, make an offer that's firm but reasonable:
- Start at or slightly below invoice price
- Reference competing quotes you've received
- Be specific with numbers (e.g., "$34,250 out the door")
Script: Making Your Counter-Offer
"I've done my research and I've gotten quotes from other dealers in the area. Based on what I'm seeing for similar vehicles, I'm prepared to buy today at $[your target price] out the door, including all taxes and fees. Can you make that work?"
Doc Fees, Dealer Add-Ons & How to Handle Them
After you agree on a price, dealers try to make back profit through fees and add-ons. Here's how to handle each.
Documentation Fees
Every dealer charges a "doc fee" for processing paperwork. This fee varies wildly by state and dealer.
Doc Fee Guidelines
- Under $800: Generally acceptable in most markets
- $800-$1,200: High but common in some states (Florida, etc.)
- Over $1,200: Excessive—push back or walk
Pro tip: Don't try to negotiate the doc fee directly—it's set by the dealership and applied to all sales. Instead, focus on the total OTD price. If the doc fee is high, negotiate a lower vehicle price to compensate.
Dealer Add-Ons: Always Decline
This is where dealers make back the money they "lost" on the car price. Your default answer to every add-on should be no.
Always Decline
- • Fabric/paint protection ($500-$1,500)
- • VIN etching ($300-$500)
- • Nitrogen tire fill ($100-$300)
- • Dealer prep/delivery packages ($500-$2,000)
- • "Protection packages" ($1,000-$3,000)
- • Window etching ($200-$400)
- • Pinstripes/door guards ($200-$500)
Negotiate Separately
- • Extended warranties (get quotes elsewhere)
- • GAP insurance (often cheaper at credit unions)
- • Maintenance plans (calculate if it's worth it)
- • Wheel/tire protection (may be worth it for expensive rims)
When Add-Ons Are "Already Installed"
Dealers often pre-install add-ons and claim they can't be removed. You have two options:
- Request removal: "Please remove it from the price. I didn't ask for it."
- Request an offsetting discount: "If you can't remove it, I need an equivalent discount on the vehicle price."
Script: Handling Pre-Installed Add-Ons
Dealer: "This vehicle has our $1,500 protection package already installed. It can't be removed."
You: "I understand, but I didn't request that package and I'm not going to pay for it. Either remove it from the price, or give me a $1,500 discount on the vehicle to offset it. Otherwise, I'll find a vehicle at another dealer that doesn't have it."
Key principle: Be firm but reasonable. Don't get angry or confrontational—just be clear that you won't pay for things you didn't ask for.
Word-for-Word Negotiation Scripts
Here are proven scripts for common negotiation scenarios:
When They Ask About Your Budget
Dealer: "What monthly payment are you comfortable with?"
You: "I'm not focused on the monthly payment—I'm looking at the total out-the-door price. What's your best price on this vehicle?"
When They Say "That's Our Best Price"
Dealer: "I've gone to my manager and this is absolutely the best we can do."
You: "I appreciate that, but I have a quote from [other dealer] for $[lower price]. I'd prefer to buy from you, but I need you to match or beat that price."
When They Use "Today Only" Pressure
Dealer: "This price is only good if you buy today."
You: "I understand. If the price isn't good tomorrow, then I'll buy from someone else tomorrow. But I'm not making a decision under pressure. Put your best offer in writing and I'll let you know."
When They Add Unwanted Extras
Dealer: "This vehicle comes with our protection package—it's already installed."
You: "I didn't ask for that and I'm not paying for it. Either remove it from the price or I'll find a vehicle without it at another dealer."
When You're Ready to Walk Away
You: "Thank you for your time. The numbers just aren't working for me today. Here's my card—if anything changes, give me a call."
(Stand up and start walking toward the door. They'll often stop you with a better offer.)
Common Negotiation Mistakes to Avoid
Falling in love with one specific car
Emotional attachment kills your negotiating power. Always have alternatives.
Negotiating monthly payment instead of total price
Dealers can manipulate loan terms to hit any monthly payment while increasing total cost.
Mentioning your trade-in too early
They'll factor it into the new car price, making it impossible to see if you're getting a fair deal on either.
Not getting the out-the-door price in writing
Verbal offers can change. Get every number on paper before agreeing.
Shopping on a busy Saturday
Salespeople have less time and motivation to negotiate when the lot is full of customers.
Being too aggressive or insulting
Lowballing insults the dealer and ends negotiations. Be firm but respectful.
When to Walk Away
Walking away is your most powerful negotiating tool. Be prepared to use it when:
- The dealer won't give you an out-the-door price in writing
- They're adding mandatory fees or packages you didn't ask for
- The price is significantly higher than competing quotes
- You feel pressured or uncomfortable
- They won't let you take the paperwork home to review
Remember: There are thousands of dealers selling the same car. You have options—they need your business more than you need their specific car.
Know What Others Are Paying
The best way to know if you should walk away? Compare your offer to what others are actually paying. CarWhere shows you real transaction prices so you never overpay.
Check Real PricesFrequently Asked Questions
How much can you negotiate off a new car price?
On average, you can negotiate 5-10% off the MSRP of a new car, though this varies by brand, model, and market conditions. Remember: invoice price is NOT dealer cost—they receive holdback, incentives, and bonuses. Dealers can sell below invoice and still profit, so don't believe "we're losing money at this price."
How do you negotiate a lease?
For leases, focus on three numbers: 1) Cap cost (the selling price)—negotiate this down like a purchase, 2) Money factor—ask for the "base rate" as dealers often mark this up (multiply by 2400 to get APR), and 3) Ensure all rebates reduce your cap cost. Also ask for the true "zero drive-off" payment to compare deals fairly.
What is the best way to negotiate a car price?
Contact 3-4 dealers and let them compete for your business. Always negotiate the out-the-door (OTD) price, never the monthly payment. Get quotes via email first to remove pressure, then negotiate in person. Be firm but reasonable—the goal is a fair deal, not to "win."
Should I tell the dealer my budget?
No, never reveal your budget or monthly payment target. Dealers can manipulate loan terms, add fees, or adjust trade-in values to hit any monthly payment while increasing total cost. Focus only on the out-the-door price.
What should you not say to a car dealer?
Never say: your maximum budget, that you must buy today, that you love the car, your target monthly payment, or that you have a trade-in (until price is negotiated). Also avoid saying you're paying cash upfront—dealers make money on financing and may give a better price if they think they'll earn financing revenue.
Is the invoice price what the dealer actually paid?
No. Invoice is not dealer cost. Dealers receive 2-3% holdback from manufacturers, plus dealer cash, volume bonuses, and other incentives not shown on the invoice. They can sell below invoice and still make a profit. This is why "we're losing money" is rarely true.
Should I refuse to pay doc fees?
Don't fight the doc fee directly—it's set by the dealership for all sales. Instead, focus on the total OTD price. If the doc fee is high (over $800), negotiate a lower vehicle price to compensate. A $995 doc fee with a great vehicle price can still be a good deal.
What is the best day of the week to buy a car?
Monday through Thursday are typically best. Weekends are busy and salespeople have less incentive to negotiate. End of month is ideal as dealers push to hit sales targets. End of quarter (March, June, September, December) can be even better.
How do I handle dealer add-ons I don't want?
Always decline add-ons like paint protection, VIN etching, and nitrogen tire fill. If they claim it's "already installed," request they remove the charge OR give you an equivalent discount on the vehicle price. Be firm: "I didn't ask for it, and I'm not paying for it."
Should I negotiate the trade-in separately?
Yes, always negotiate the new car price first, then negotiate your trade-in as a separate transaction. This prevents the dealer from manipulating numbers between the two to confuse you. Better yet, get quotes from CarMax or Carvana first to know your trade-in's market value.
The Bottom Line
Negotiating a car price comes down to three things: preparation, patience, and willingness to walk away. Know what the car should cost, get competing quotes, and don't let pressure tactics rush your decision.
The dealers negotiate car deals every day—but now you have the same playbook they use. Go get a great deal.
What Are People Actually Paying?
Don't guess if you're getting a good deal. See real dealer quotes from real buyers and know exactly what fair price looks like.