Lease vs. Buy Car Calculator

Compare the total cost of leasing versus buying the same car. Enter your price, rate, money factor, and residual to see monthly payments, equity, and the year-by-year cost gap.

6-Year Analysis

Buying saves $15,269

Based on a $45,000 vehicle over 6 years

Financing$34,987 net cost
Leasing$50,256 net cost
Best Value

Finance Payment

$783/mo

60 months at 6.5% APR

Lease Payment

$642/mo

36 months at 4.8% equiv. APR

Vehicle

$20,000$100,000
$0$22,500

Finance Terms

0%15%
Total Interest$6,959

Lease Terms

4.8% APR
0.00050.002000.004
40%70%
$0$5,000

Financing Summary

After 6 years

Total Payments$51,959
Vehicle Value+$16,972
Your Equity+$16,972
Net Cost$34,987

Leasing Summary

2 leases over 6 years

Total Payments$50,256
Vehicle Value$0
Your Equity$0
Net Cost$50,256

Year-by-Year Breakdown

YearBuy: PaidCar ValueBuy: NetLease: NetDifference
Year 1$14,392$38,250$9,144$9,709+$565
Year 2$23,784$32,512$16,807$17,419+$612
Year 3$33,175$27,636$23,109$27,128+$4,019
Year 4$42,567$23,490$28,146$34,837+$6,691
Year 5$51,959$19,967$31,992$42,547+$10,555
Year 6$51,959$16,972$34,987$50,256+$15,269

Positive difference means buying saves money. Assumes 15% annual depreciation.

These calculations are estimates for comparison purposes only. Actual costs may vary based on credit score, manufacturer incentives, negotiated prices, taxes, fees, and market conditions. Always confirm final numbers with your dealer.

How this calculator works

  1. 1Enter the vehicle price and your planned down payment — both scenarios use the same car.
  2. 2Set your loan APR and term (36-84 months) for the buying side.
  3. 3Set the money factor, residual value, lease term, and due-at-signing amount for the leasing side.
  4. 4Pick an analysis period of 3-7 years. Back-to-back leases are assumed when the period outlasts one lease term.
  5. 5Read the result: net cost = everything paid, minus the equity you hold at the end. Lower net cost wins.

What each input means

Vehicle price
The negotiated selling price — used as the loan basis and the lease’s capitalized cost.
Down payment
Cash paid upfront on the purchase. Reduces the amount financed.
APR
Your loan’s annual interest rate. Use a real quote, not the advertised teaser.
Money factor
The lease’s interest rate in disguise. Multiply by 2,400 for the approximate APR.
Residual value
The bank’s prediction of the car’s value at lease end, as a percentage of price. Higher residual = lower payment.
Due at signing
Cash at lease signing, treated here as cap-cost reduction plus fees. Does not include the first monthly payment.
Analysis period
The horizon for the comparison. Short horizons favor lease cash flow; long horizons favor ownership.
Net cost
Total paid plus any remaining loan balance, minus the vehicle value you hold. Leases hold no value at the end.

Assumptions and formulas

Loan payment: standard amortization — principal × monthly rate ÷ (1 − (1 + monthly rate)−months).

Lease payment: depreciation charge ((net cap cost − residual) ÷ term) plus finance charge ((net cap cost + residual) × money factor).

Vehicle value: the buying side assumes 15% annual depreciation from the entered price.

Continuous leasing: when the analysis period outlasts a lease, a new identical lease begins — including a new due-at-signing amount.

Excluded: sales tax, insurance, fuel, maintenance, and mileage-overage charges. They apply on both paths but vary by state and driver.

A reference example

Take a $40,000 car with $5,000 down. Financing the remaining $35,000 at 7% APR for 60 months costs $693/month — $46,582 in total cash. At year six the car is still worth $18,000, so the net cost is $28,582.

Leasing instead — two back-to-back 36-month leases at $450/month with $2,000 due at each signing — costs $36,400 with no equity at the end. Buying comes out $7,818 ahead over six years, while the single 3-year lease is easier on cash flow early on.

Full walkthrough, assumptions, and when each side wins: see our guide to leasing vs. buying a car.

Calculator FAQs

What money factor should I enter?

Use the money factor from your actual quote — ask the dealer directly; they must disclose it. Multiply it by 2,400 to see the equivalent APR (0.00250 ≈ 6.0%). If you are just exploring, 0.002-0.003 is a typical range for good credit; advertised promotional leases can run much lower.

What residual value percentage should I use?

Use the residual from your quote — it is set by the leasing bank per model and term, not negotiated. For rough exploration, mainstream vehicles on 36-month leases commonly land around 50-60% of MSRP. A higher residual means less depreciation to pay for and a lower payment.

What does "due at signing" include in this calculator?

The cash you bring to lease signing — cap-cost reduction plus upfront fees. The calculator treats it as a capitalized-cost reduction and does not double-count your first monthly payment inside it. Dealer quotes sometimes fold the first payment into their due-at-signing figure, so subtract it before entering.

Why does the analysis period change which option wins?

Because the two costs are shaped differently over time. Early on, leasing is easier on cash while a loan is still mid-amortization; after payoff, the owned car keeps its value while lease payments and signing fees keep repeating. In our reference example, one 3-year lease beats the loan on cash flow, but buying is $7,818 ahead by year six.

Does the calculator include taxes, insurance, and maintenance?

No. Sales tax, insurance, fuel, and maintenance are excluded because they apply on both paths, though not always equally — lease taxation in particular varies by state. Treat the results as a structural comparison of financing costs, then confirm the out-the-door numbers on your actual quotes.

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