How to Buy a Car from Copart (2026): Steps, Fees & What to Check
Yes, the public can buy cars from Copart — but not every car. Many lots are sold only to licensed businesses, depending on the state where the car sits and its title or sale document. You have three ways in: register as a Copart member and bid on lots marked “No License Required”, buy through a registered broker who holds the licenses and bids for you, or register as a business member if you hold a dealer or similar license. Whichever route you take, the process is the same: deposit, search, research the lot, check the VIN’s history, set a maximum bid that includes fees, bid, pay, and pick up within a few business days.
By Sam Reynolds, Lead Researcher, CarWhere · Verified against Copart’s published pages, November 2026. CarWhere is independent and not affiliated with Copart.
Can I buy from Copart without a dealer license?
Yes, for some vehicles. Copart sells to the general public in some jurisdictions and labels those lots “No License Required.” Other lots are restricted to licensed buyers (dealers, dismantlers, rebuilders, exporters) under the rules of the state where the car is located. To bid on a restricted lot without a license, you buy through a registered broker who meets the local licensing requirements and bids for you, for a fee.
Updated November 2026 · Sources: Copart: No License Required · Copart Form 10-K
Three ways to buy from Copart
| Route | Who it fits | What you can buy |
|---|---|---|
| Register as a member and bid on public lots | Individuals in the US (and many other countries) with a government photo ID | Only lots open to the public — Copart marks these "No License Required." Many lots are limited to licensed businesses depending on the state and the title or sale document. |
| Buy through a registered broker | Anyone, including buyers outside the US | The broker holds the licenses and bids for you, which opens up most lots. Expect a broker fee on top of Copart’s fees, and read the broker’s own terms. |
| Register as a business member | Licensed dealers, dismantlers, rebuilders, repairers, exporters | Broadest access. Copart asks business members for copies of their licenses (and sales-tax exemption certificates where they apply). |
How to buy a car on Copart, step by step
- 1
Register and add a deposit
Create an account on copart.com and choose a membership (Copart offers Basic and Premier tiers for individuals; current prices are on Copart’s registration page). Every member provides a government photo ID; business members also upload their licenses. Your bidding limit — Copart calls it buying power — is tied to a refundable security deposit, so raising it means adding to the deposit. If you are not licensed and want lots that require a license, this is the point to choose a registered broker instead.
- 2
Search and filter
Filter by make, model, year and location, then by the fields that decide whether the car is worth your time: the title or sale document type (clean, salvage, non-repairable, certificate of destruction and so on — the exact names vary by state), primary and secondary damage, and condition status such as “Run and Drive,” “Engine Starts” or neither. If you are a public buyer, filter to lots you are eligible to bid on. Location matters: it decides your transport cost and which state’s title rules apply.
- 3
Research the lot
Go through every listing photo, the damage fields, the odometer reading and its status (actual or not actual), the keys field, and the sale document listed for the lot — that document is what you will actually receive, and it decides whether the car can be registered where you live. Copart sells vehicles as-is; if you can’t inspect in person, some buyers pay a third-party inspector at the yard.
- 4
Check the VIN’s history before you bid
This is the step Copart’s own process leaves to you. A car on Copart today may have been through a salvage auction before — wrecked, sold, repaired, and back again. The current listing only shows the car now. Run the VIN for prior auction appearances (damage reported at each earlier sale, odometer at sale, and the photos taken then), reported salvage records, theft records, an odometer timeline, its listing history, and open recalls. A car that was repaired after an earlier sale and is back with new damage is a different purchase from a first-time total loss — and the odometer at the earlier sale is the easiest way to catch a rollback. See the Copart VIN lookup for how past sales are found once a lot page comes down.
- 5
Set a maximum bid that includes every fee
Work backward from what the car is worth to you after repairs, then subtract Copart’s buyer fee and other fees (they scale with the sale price — see the fees section below), any broker fee, transport, repairs, and, for overseas buyers, shipping and import taxes. What is left is your maximum bid. Decide it before the auction, not during it.
- 6
Bid: preliminary bid, then the live virtual auction
Copart uses a two-step process. During preliminary bidding you enter your maximum, and Copart’s automated bidder places bids for you one increment at a time, up to that maximum — so you can win below it. Preliminary bidding closes at a set time before the sale. Then the live virtual auction runs online in real time: bidders compete with each other and with the top preliminary bid, and when bidding stops a countdown starts — if no new bid comes in, the car sells to the highest bidder. Some lots sell subject to the seller’s approval of the high bid.
- 7
Pay before the deadline
Payment is due within a short window after the sale, counted in business days, and late payment adds a fee. Your member terms and the lot’s invoice list the exact deadline and accepted payment methods. Payments are applied to outstanding fees first, then to the vehicle.
- 8
Pick up the car or arrange transport
You (or your transporter) also have a short window, counted in business days, to remove the car. After it, Copart moves the vehicle to storage and charges storage fees — plus a gate fee to release it — until it leaves. Book a transporter before the auction ends, not after. Overseas buyers usually hand this step to a broker or freight forwarder that trucks the car to a port.
- 9
Transfer the title — and rebuild-inspect if it is salvage
Copart mails or releases the sale document listed on the lot. A clean title transfers like any other used car. A salvage title cannot be driven on public roads until the car is repaired and passes your state’s salvage or rebuilt inspection, after which the state issues a rebuilt title — the brand stays on the title permanently. Some states re-brand a car when it is registered there even if the document from the sale state looked clean. Check your state’s process (receipts for parts, photos of the repair, inspection fees) before you bid; our salvage check pages list state-by-state rules.
Check a Copart lot’s VIN before you bid
Paste the VIN from the lot page. The free preview shows whether earlier salvage-auction records exist. The full CarWhere Used Car Report ($12.99, one-time) shows the details where records exist — damage reported at earlier sales with the photos, odometer at sale, reported salvage and theft records, an odometer timeline, listing history, and open recalls — from licensed vehicle-data providers and NHTSA.
Copart fees: what you pay on top of the bid
Copart’s fees are not included in the bid, and they change, so read the current amounts on Copart’s Member Fees page before you set a maximum bid. These are the categories you will see:
| Fee | What it covers |
|---|---|
| Buyer fee | Copart’s main fee on every purchase, tiered by the sale price. Check the schedule that applies to your account on Copart’s Member Fees page. |
| Virtual / internet bid fee | Added when you win online. Copart charges it by sale-price tier. |
| Gate fee | A per-vehicle handling charge for moving the car out of the yard to the loading area. |
| Late payment fee | Charged if payment arrives after the deadline. |
| Storage fee | Charged per day once the free pickup window ends, until the car leaves the yard. |
| Broker fee (if you use one) | Set by the broker, not Copart — usually a flat fee per car or a percentage. It sits on top of every Copart fee above. |
To turn this into a maximum bid: take what the car is worth to you repaired, subtract repairs, transport, any broker fee and (overseas) shipping and import taxes, then subtract the Copart fees for that price tier. Because the buyer fee rises with the price, recheck the tier once you have a number.
The total cost of a Copart car
The winning bid is only the first line. Every line below applies to most buyers; the overseas lines apply when the car is leaving the US.
| Cost | What it covers |
|---|---|
| Lot price (winning bid) | The hammer price only. |
| Copart fees | Buyer fee, virtual bid fee, gate fee, and any late-payment fee. |
| Broker fee | Only if you buy through a registered broker. |
| US transport | Trucking from the Copart yard to your home, shop, or the export port. |
| Storage | Copart storage after the free window, and port or warehouse storage while the car waits to ship. |
| Ocean shipping (overseas buyers) | Container or roll-on/roll-off freight, port handling, marine insurance. |
| Import duty and taxes (overseas buyers) | Customs duty, VAT, excise and any registration tax in your country. |
| Repairs and parts | Fixing the reported damage plus anything the photos didn’t show. |
| Registration and inspection | Title transfer, a state salvage/rebuilt inspection where required, registration, and in many countries a technical inspection or homologation. |
International buyers: buying from Copart outside the US
Copart reports roughly a million members in more than 185 countries, and runs an international buyers program with international shipping information. In practice, most buyers outside the US work through a registered broker, because many lots require a US license and because someone has to pay Copart, collect the car, and move it to a port inside the pickup window. The order of operations:
- Choose a registered broker and read their fee schedule and terms.
- Confirm your country accepts the car — age limits, emissions or safety approval, and left-hand drive rules.
- Confirm the lot’s sale document is valid for export; some documents cannot be exported at all.
- Check the VIN’s auction history and recalls before your broker bids.
- Budget the full stack: lot price, Copart fees, broker fee, US trucking, ocean freight, duty and taxes, repairs, local registration.
- After arrival, clear customs, repair as needed, and pass your country’s inspection and registration.
Country-specific duty, tax and registration rules are on our import a car from the USA hub, including Ukraine and Georgia, both major destinations for US auction cars. For the end-to-end process, see importing a car from the USA.
Red flags on a Copart listing
| Red flag | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Flood or water damage | Water reaches wiring, modules, and interiors in ways that photos rarely show, and problems can appear long after the repair. Read our flood-car guide before bidding on one. |
| Frame, structural, or undercarriage damage | A "Front End" plus "Undercarriage" damage combination often means structural or airbag-system repairs, which are the most expensive to do correctly. |
| Non-repairable, parts-only, or certificate-of-destruction documents | These documents generally mean the car cannot be titled for road use again — it is sold for parts or scrap. Check the lot’s sale document before you bid. |
| Export-only documents | Some lots are sold with documents marked for export only. You are responsible for confirming before bidding that the documents work for export to your country — and that they work for registration if you plan to keep the car in the US. |
| "Run and Drive" status | It means that when the car arrived at the yard it started, went into gear, and moved forward under its own power. It is not a mechanical inspection, and it is not a promise the car will run at pickup or is roadworthy. |
| Missing keys | Replacing and programming keys on newer cars can cost more than you expect, and a car without keys is harder to load and transport. |
| Odometer not actual or exempt | The mileage can’t be trusted. Compare it against the odometer readings recorded at any earlier auction sale of the same VIN. |
More detail: flood-damaged cars · salvage titles · should you buy a rebuilt title?
Frequently asked questions
Can I buy from Copart without a dealer license?
Yes, but only some cars. Copart sells to the public in some jurisdictions and marks those lots "No License Required"; many other lots are limited to licensed businesses depending on the state where the car is located and its title or sale document. To bid on those, you buy through a registered broker who holds the required licenses and bids on your behalf.
How much are Copart fees?
On top of the winning bid you pay a buyer fee that scales with the sale price, a virtual (internet) bid fee when you win online, and a gate fee per vehicle, plus storage if you miss the pickup window and a late fee if you pay late. A broker adds their own fee. Copart publishes the current amounts on its Member Fees page; check the schedule that applies to your account before you set a maximum bid.
Can I buy from Copart from outside the US, for example from Ukraine?
Yes. Copart has members in well over 100 countries and runs an international buyers program. Most buyers outside the US use a registered broker, who bids on lots that need a license, pays Copart, and arranges trucking to a US port and ocean shipping. You then pay import duty and taxes and register the car under your country’s rules. Check the lot’s sale document is valid for export before you bid.
Is it worth buying from Copart?
It can be, if you know repair costs and price in every fee. Cars sell well below retail because most are damaged, insurer total losses, or carry salvage titles. The savings disappear when the damage is worse than the photos showed, the sale document can’t be registered where you live, or fees, transport, and repairs weren’t counted up front. Buyers who do well set a maximum bid from the total cost and walk away above it.
How do I check a Copart car’s history before bidding?
Run the 17-character VIN through an auction-history check. It shows whether the same car went through a salvage auction before — the damage reported at that earlier sale, the odometer reading, and the photos taken then — plus reported salvage records, theft records, an odometer timeline, and open recalls. The current Copart listing only describes the car as it is today.
What does a salvage title mean after buying from Copart?
It means an insurer or the state treated the car as a total loss. You can own it, but you cannot register and drive it until it is repaired and passes your state’s salvage or rebuilt inspection. The state then issues a rebuilt title, and that brand stays with the car permanently, which lowers its resale value and can limit insurance and financing.
Related
Sources
- Copart — How to buy
- Copart — Member fees
- Copart — No License Required vehicles
- Copart — International buyers
- Copart — International shipping information
- Copart — Member terms and conditions
- Copart, Inc. Form 10-K (members, registered broker program, two-step bidding)
- Copart fourth-quarter fiscal 2025 results (members and countries)
- Copart fee amounts, deposits and deadlines change; Copart’s own pages and your member terms are authoritative (checked November 2026).